It’s been so cold here with all the snow and ice we’ve had, I just want to wrap myself up in a sweater from head to toe. But I’d look pretty funny I’m sure. Instead I thought I’d share this tutorial on a sweater skirt I made a while ago. I made this one out of a super soft XL maternity sweater in a beautiful multi-tonal blue and another one out of a camel colored cashmere sweater. Both are favorites to wear to church with a pair of tall boots on a cold winter’s day when I still want to look nice.
Here’s what to do:
Flip it inside out and chop off the top of the sweater, under the arms is a good place. I am close to 6 feet tall, so a maternity sweater worked well because the tend to be longer.
The next step is not necessary, I prefer to serge the sweater immediately to reduce the knit coming undone. Even though it makes my machine a mess, I also find this step reduces the bits of fuzz that I find all over my house when I don’t do this step (plus, I like to use my Serger!)
Next up is the waist band. I have recently fallen in love with a yoga waist for a few reasons. First, it is super easy. Second, it’s a great way to use up my old t-shirt stash. Third, it makes the skirt lay neater. And finally, it is amazingly comfortable, like your favorite comfy sweat pants!
The basic formula I learned for a yoga waist is this. Measure your waist, subtract 3 inches and divide by two. So, my waist is about 33 inches, subtract 3 and get 30 inches. Divide by 2 and end with 15 inches for the width. This needs to be the stretchiest direction of the knit. The length of the fabric is 15 inches, no calculations there. (Mine just happens to be square). Cut two of these pieces, so I cut two 15×15 inch pieces. Serge or sew up the sides, creating a tube. Of course, you could just have one piece and sew one seam, but the two seams make it much easier to line up the side seams of the skirt.
Once the two seams are done, fold your tube in half over it’s self. In the picture below, I’m trying to show the unfinished ends at the bottom (I hope that makes sense).
So where you’ve folded it over is now the top of the waist band, see below.
Below is a close up of the unfinished ends, this is where you will sew the sweater on.
Line the side seams of the waist band up to the side seams of the sweater. Sew the doubled over ends to the top of the cut off sweater. You will be sewing two thicknesses of the knit to the sweater. The knit sweater ends up kinda wavy. If you are using a regular sewing machine, a strip of masking or blue painters tape can stabilize the knit and reduce this waviness. If you do, put the tape on right before sewing and remove it right away or the tape can leave some gummy residue.
Below is the waist band attached to the sweater. It’s complete! Here is another reason why I love the yoga waist… see how it is kinda wavy, the yoga waist is supposed to be folded down, covering up this waviness.
Here is is folded down:
Here it is on, I just love it, so comfy!
Sorry, it’s a terrible picture always forget to find someone to take a new picture of it when I’m wearing it!
I originally saw a beautiful cable knit skirt at Anthropology. I noticed that several of the reviews said it was comfy and beautiful but (there’s always a but, right!?!?) since the whole skirt is knit yarn the waist would stretch out after a few wears. It was because of these reviews that I decided to use the yoga waist band.
Tips For yoga waist bands
- If the knit is very stretchy, I like to subtract 4 inches instead of 3.
- If the knit is not very stretchy, I only subtract 2 inches.
- The length of the waist band is supposed to be 15 inches even for a kids skirt, but I find 10 inches on a little kids skirt works fine, which can easily be found in one of their old t-shirts
What do you like to wear to keep cozy in the winter weather?